Tuesday, December 17, 2013

My Spearmint from Lolita Patterns

Spearmint by Lolita Patterns
Seduce them from 20 paces without removing a stitch!
Hello friends, have you heard about the Spearmint from Lolita patterns yet? No? OH BUT YOU MUST!




Spearmint Sew-Along Badge 200 x 200


There will be a sew-a-long much later but now I want to tell you about this coat. Its the first test pattern I've every done and it was challenging, a wee bit stressful, and very, VERY rewarding. I've had more than one coworker try to steal or bribe me out of this coat. A word of warning, however, its considered a top coat, so its perfect for transitional weather, an opera coat, or if you live in a more temperate area like I do, its perfect for most winter days.


Spearmint by Lolita Patterns

I made the first of the plus-size range, the size 18 with almost no modifications. I did do a forward shoulder and large arm adjustment (my first on a 2 piece sleeve) which is standard for me. In full disclosure, there were a few issues with the beta test pattern. On the plus sizes specifically, the pockets were oddly low and the sleeves a couple inches too long. These have been fixed in the released version! I also could have fixed both issues during construction, but I'd already perfectly pressed the pockets and I like longer sleeves for warmth, anyway. On the plus side, the pockets are easily accessible with the seat belt on, which is good cause I'm pretty absent minded about where I store keys and phones.


Spearmint by Lolita Patterns
Very long sleeves!
But we're here to talk about how awesome this coat is! I've been looking for something with this sort of romantic collar for AGES and there's nothing out there in my size. I love the Lolita aesthetic but its rarely available in my size, which is why I'm kind of in love with Amity and her company right now. She did some serious market research and uses a completely separate block for her 16-24 sizes. This means no FBA was required! And with 3/8 inch seam allowance the princess seams were a breeze to sew up.



Spearmint by Lolita Patterns


For the shell I used a Shetland wool I acquired from Fabric Mart a few years ago, and the lining is a silk twill by Marc Jacobs, ALSO from Fabric Mart. The combination of the two makes this very warm, especially with a hat and scarf. You can see the hem itself is bagging a bit, this is completely my fault. I did not stay stitch the seams together but have since fixed that. Its in the instructions and very easy. The other thing that was amazing is the bag out lining is done completely by machine! It was a very non-euclidian feat of geometry that had me going "This will never work!" and then TADA!! It was done. Like magic. My mind, it boggled. This is the first full size coat I've made and I think I'm going to make the shorter version of this next in turquoise. And possibly one for Felicity too! Deets: Shell Fabric: 4 yards of Shetland wool at $8 a yard Lining: Three yards of silk twill (60" wide) at $9 a yard Pattern: Retails for $22 dollars and if I hadn't pattern tested I'd be more than willing to shell out my money for it! Time to Complete: Including muslin, construction, and feedback, a total of 12 active hours over three weeks, second one would take about 5 from cut to finish


Spearmint by Lolita Patterns
In seam pockets!

More photos!

Spearmint by Lolita Patterns
Back view

Spearmint by Lolita Patterns
Swoosh!

Spearmint by Lolita Patterns
Yup, that's how I roll.


And there it is y'all! You know you want to make this coat, you really do.

12 comments:

  1. Love your version! No wonder your coworkers want to steal it! Everyone's Spearmint is so different it's interesting. =)

    It was a challenging testing, but if you can do this well with a tricky test, you can test anything!

    ~ Brooke

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  2. Loveliest version that I've seen so far! Great job on the sewing and pressing...

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  3. This style really suits you Lady K. I'm glad you were able to get that puppy done.

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  4. Aaaah you made a red one too! Love!!! My lining does the same thing yours does, btw...

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  5. Gorgeous! The color really suits you. This style is fabulous.

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  6. It looks fantastic!! I love, love the wool and the style really suits you.

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  7. What a fabulous shade of red. It's gorgeous, and so are your shoes! Great photos.

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  8. Nicely done- that color is so rich and cozy, too!

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  9. I love this coat and being plus sized I understand when you say that is very difficult to find either patterns or RTW coats that fit and are also nice and feminine! I should give it a try even though I'm completely terrified by lining. But this coat looks so totally fab that I have to overcome my fears!

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