I've had this particular dress in my head for some time now. I think it was on my Spring Palette challenge for 2011 and been on my "to do" list since 2010. There were a few reasons I was reticent in making up, the biggest being fitting issues. Why the people at Vogue decided to label this as "easy", I can't even begin to guess. All but the halter variations have a "lined under bodice" with the most convoluted instructions I've seen to date. The more I tried to figure them out, the more confused I got. Once I threw out (or aside) the under bodice piece (That would be #5) the entire thing became much MUCH less complicated.
So first thing's first, I had to figure out how to modify the bodice pattern for my bust size. The waist should be fitted snugly UNDER the bust (ending result should be WOAH MAMMA!). I cut my normal size 18 (for commercial patterns) and pattern ease is +3 inches. This means I need to add 4.5 inches total for the bust, about three for the waist. I decided to go with the more couture method of marking my seam lines and then tracing onto grid interfacing (the cheap stuff from JoAnn's), to make my initial pattern modifications before doing my first muslin.
|Marking seam lines|
|Fitting and Pattern Alteration|
Then I got to pinning and tracing the modified pieces onto muslin. Have I mentioned I also purchased the 26x39 inch tracing paper from Richard The Thread? I have no idea how I ever lived my life without that stuff. HOLY COW does it make life easier!
|thread tracing queue|
|Front muslin view|
So, first muslin isn't too bad. I made markings of where I want my front bodice seams to fall which should put the midriff front right at my waistline. I'm also bringing the two pieces together in the front so the neckline won't be so plunging. A good friend mentioned I could always wear a cami underneath for more work-appropriate modesty, which I thought not a bad idea.
|back muslin view|
All that work is going to have to happen later though. I've got my four, 12 hour days ahead of me. Oh, and in case you were wondering, the black and pink is what I'm using for this dress. Same print as my daughter's fabric, different colorway.
|Print in two colorways|