Having said all that, I am going to add that this is a very intimidating project. The number of new skills include major pattern alteration/drafting, hand basting fashion and underlining, soft pleats, six gored skirt, godets, and a hidden placket in the side seam for snaps. Because I'm making this out of such a lightweight silk I'm using acrylic snaps instead of a zipper. It really took some mental mustering to even get out my resources. I brought out my "Fitting and Pattern Alterations" text book, the "Couture Sewing Techniques" from Shaeffer, and of course the Susan Kalje online couture class.
I'm using Simplicity 1801 by Cynthia Rowley for the bodice portion, and Colette's Oolong for the skirt portion, and the article in Threads #155 by Susan Kalje in how to add vintage details (like godets) into a garment (not pictured).
So far I have managed to separate the pattern pieces and make seam lines. I also made the full bust and rounded shoulder adjustments, as well as change the grain line on the Oolong skirt pieces from bias to straight of grain. There is something in the way of 12 pattern pieces once I include the eventually self-drafted sleeves, godets (six, one in each seam of the skirt), and facing pieces.
|re-drafting the grain lines.|
|laying out the pieces|
|pattern marking wheel|
What this does is transfer the marks to the back side of the pattern. I then will take the paper patterns off, re-pin inside the stitching line and then trace over the marks on the other side so I have mirror images. This gives me a full piece for those things on the fold, two for those not. One must remember we are taking flat cloth and engineering it to something that fits to an often non symmetrical body.
|the other side|
My intention here is to also log the number of hours spent on this project and do a running tally of what it would cost if I were charging someone by the hour to make something at standard market wage for a couture level seamstress(albeit, beginner). $30hr
Materials: Six yards of coral silk crepe de chine(inherited), 5 yards of crepe de chine for lining (35), 1 yard of antique lace($15), 1 yard of 45" wide lace ($15) =$65
Hours put into this so far, not including blogging and daydreaming: 4 hrs = $120